Tantan-men (Sesame Ramen) — Easy Recipe Without Neri-Goma
Tantanmen (担々麺) is one of Japan’s most beloved spicy ramen styles — and also one of the most achievable at home. The dish traces its roots to Sichuan’s dandan noodles (担担面), where vendors once balanced bamboo shoulder poles carrying two baskets of noodles and spicy sauce through the streets of Chengdu. When the dish arrived in Japan, it transformed into something distinctly new: a rich, creamy sesame-soy broth loaded with chili oil and a savory minced pork topping called zha jiang (炸醤, meat miso).
The biggest obstacle for home cooks outside Japan is neri-goma (練り胡麻, Japanese sesame paste) — it’s hard to find at regular supermarkets. Good news: tahini, the Middle Eastern sesame paste, works beautifully as a direct substitute. Mixed with toasted sesame oil and ground sesame seeds, it produces a broth that’s virtually indistinguishable from the restaurant version. This guide walks you through every step, including three sesame paste options and two popular variations.
- How Sichuan dandan noodles became Japanese tantanmen — and why the broth is so creamy
- Step-by-step zha jiang (meat miso) that stays crispy and fragrant
- Three sesame paste options: neri-goma, ground sesame seeds, and tahini
- Assembly tips: la-yu chili oil, scallions, and sansho pepper ratios
- Brothless (shirunashi) and cold tantanmen variations
What Is Tantan-men?
The original Sichuan dandan noodles (担担面) are a dry dish — noodles tossed with a small amount of spicy chili sauce, Sichuan peppercorn, preserved vegetables (ya cai), and minced pork, served in a tiny bowl with barely any liquid. The mala (numbing-spicy) flavor profile dominates, and the dish is consumed in a few bites, almost like a snack.
Japanese tantanmen diverged significantly from this tradition. When Sichuanese chef Chen Kenmin introduced the dish to Japan in the mid-20th century, he adapted it for Japanese palates and eating habits. The key changes were adding a generous volume of sesame-enriched broth, softening the heat level, and adding soy milk or dairy milk to create a creamy, rounded flavor. The result is a full ramen bowl — warming, rich, and spoonable — rather than a dry sauce dish.
Today’s Japanese tantanmen ramen features three defining elements: the sesame broth (chicken or pork stock blended with sesame paste, soy sauce, and soy milk), the zha jiang topping (stir-fried minced pork seasoned with doubanjiang chili bean paste), and the finishing oils (la-yu chili oil, sesame oil, and optionally sansho or Sichuan peppercorn powder).
Restaurant tantanmen ranges from mildly warming to face-meltingly hot. The heat comes from two sources: doubanjiang in the zha jiang, and la-yu (chili oil) added at the end. For mild bowls, use half the doubanjiang and go light on la-yu. For restaurant-style heat, use the full amounts and add extra la-yu per bowl at the table.
Ingredients (2 Servings)
Tantanmen has three component groups that are prepared separately and combined at serving time. Mise en place before you start cooking makes the final assembly smooth and quick.
Zha Jiang (Meat Miso Topping)
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| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Ground pork | 150 g (5.3 oz) | 80/20 fat ratio preferred; cook to 145 °F / 63 °C internal |
| Doubanjiang (chili bean paste) | 1 tbsp (15 g) | Pixian-style preferred; reduce to 1 tsp for mild |
| Soy sauce | 1 tsp (5 ml) | Japanese-style, not Chinese dark soy |
| Sake (or dry sherry) | 1 tbsp (15 ml) | Helps break up the pork and reduces gaminess |
| Garlic, minced | 2 cloves | About 1 tsp; freshly minced is best |
| Fresh ginger, grated | 1 tsp (5 g) | Peel and grate finely |
| Sesame oil | 1 tsp (5 ml) | Added off-heat for fragrance |
Sesame Broth (per 2 bowls)
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| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Chicken stock | 300 ml (1¼ cups) | Low-sodium preferred; Better Than Bouillon works well |
| Unsweetened soy milk | 200 ml (¾ cup) | Do not substitute sweetened soy milk; oat milk works too |
| Sesame paste (tahini or neri-goma) | 3 tbsp (45 g) | See broth section for all three options |
| Soy sauce | 1½ tbsp (22 ml) | Builds the savory base of the broth |
| Toasted sesame oil | 1 tsp (5 ml) | Enhances sesame depth, especially when using tahini |
| Sugar | 1 tsp (4 g) | Balances the saltiness and heat |
| La-yu (chili oil) | 1–2 tsp per bowl | Added at serving, not during cooking; adjust to taste |
Toppings & Noodles
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| Item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Ramen noodles (fresh or dried) | 2 portions (about 200 g / 7 oz dry) | Medium-thin, straight noodles work best |
| Bok choy or spinach | 2–4 leaves per bowl | Blanched 30 seconds; pak choi also works |
| Scallions (green onions), sliced | 2 stalks | Thinly sliced on the diagonal |
| Ground toasted sesame seeds | 1 tsp per bowl | Optional; adds texture and nutty aroma |
| Sansho or Sichuan peppercorn powder | A pinch per bowl | Optional but highly recommended; see notes below |
Both belong to the Zanthoxylum family and produce the signature numbing-tingly sensation called mala. Sichuan peppercorn (花椒, huā jiāo) is more citrusy and intensely numbing. Japanese sansho (山椒) is more floral and delicate. Either works for tantanmen — use whichever you can find. A small pinch goes a long way.
Making Zha Jiang (Meat Miso)
Zha jiang is the crispy, fragrant minced pork topping that sits on top of tantanmen. The goal is to render the fat from the pork fully, brown the meat until the individual bits are crispy at the edges, then bloom the doubanjiang in the residual fat for maximum flavor. Prepare this before the broth — it can wait while everything else comes together.
Step 1 — Heat the Wok and Brown the Aromatics
Heat a wok or heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it just begins to smoke. Add 1 tsp of neutral oil (not sesame oil at this stage — it burns). Add the minced garlic and grated ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant, stirring constantly so they don’t brown.
Step 2 — Cook the Pork to Crispy
Add the ground pork to the wok. Pour the sake over the meat. Break the pork into small pieces with a spatula. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring every 30 seconds, until the pork is completely cooked through and the bits are lightly browned and starting to crisp at the edges — about 4–5 minutes total. Pork must reach an internal temperature of 145 °F (63 °C). At this point the pan should be mostly dry, with the fat rendered out.
Step 3 — Bloom the Doubanjiang
Reduce heat to medium. Push the pork to the sides of the pan to expose a clear hot spot in the center. Add the doubanjiang directly to that spot and fry, stirring, for 60–90 seconds. The paste will change from bright red to a deeper, darker crimson as the chili oil is released. Then mix the pork back in with the paste. Add the soy sauce and stir to combine. Remove from heat and drizzle in the sesame oil — this final flourish adds fragrance that you would lose if you added it during cooking. Set aside.
Making the Sesame Broth
The sesame broth is the soul of tantanmen. Unlike long-simmered ramen stocks, it comes together in under 10 minutes. The key is choosing the right sesame base and whisking it fully smooth before adding the stock and soy milk. Three options are described below — all produce excellent results.
Option A: Neri-goma (Japanese Sesame Paste)
If you can source neri-goma at an Asian grocery store, this is the most traditional choice. Japanese sesame paste is made from whole toasted sesame seeds — skin included — ground into a thick, brown paste. It has a more robust, slightly bitter depth compared to tahini. In a medium saucepan, whisk 3 tbsp (45 g) neri-goma with 1½ tbsp soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar until smooth. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock, then the soy milk. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until just below a simmer. Do not boil — soy milk can curdle at a rolling boil. The broth should be the consistency of thin cream soup.
Option B: Freshly Ground Toasted Sesame Seeds
For the most aromatic result, toast 4 tbsp of white sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant — about 3–4 minutes. Transfer immediately to a mortar or spice grinder and grind until roughly 70–80% of the seeds are broken into a paste (some texture is fine). Use this ground sesame in place of neri-goma, same quantity and same method. The result has a fresher, slightly coarser texture than the commercial paste.
Option C: Tahini (Most Accessible Substitute)
Tahini — the Middle Eastern sesame paste made from hulled seeds — is the easiest substitute worldwide. Because it’s made from hulled (not whole) seeds and is usually untoasted or lightly toasted, it has a lighter color and milder flavor than neri-goma. To compensate, boost the sesame profile by adding an extra 1 tsp of toasted sesame oil to the broth. Use 3 tbsp tahini, whisked smooth with the soy sauce and sugar first, then gradually add the chicken stock while whisking to avoid lumps, then the soy milk. Heat gently and serve. The resulting broth is creamy, nutty, and rich — home cooks outside Japan will find this version entirely satisfying.
Unsweetened peanut butter (smooth) can step in at a 1:1 ratio in a pinch. The flavor will shift toward peanut rather than sesame — it’s not traditional, but it still produces a rich, satisfying bowl. Reduce the toasted sesame oil to ½ tsp and taste as you go.
Single-ingredient tahini from Ethiopian sesame seeds — silky smooth, easy to whisk into broth without lumps. Versatile beyond tantanmen: also great for hummus and dressings.
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Assembly
Tantanmen assembly is a matter of speed — everything should be ready before you drain the noodles. Lay out your bowls, have the toppings prepared, and keep the broth hot on the stove.
Step 1 — Cook the Noodles
Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Add ramen noodles and cook according to package directions — typically 2–3 minutes for fresh noodles, 4–5 minutes for dried. In the last 30 seconds, drop the bok choy or spinach into the same pot to blanch. Drain noodles and greens together, shaking off excess water. Divide between two warmed bowls immediately.
Step 2 — Ladle the Broth
Pour the hot sesame broth directly over the noodles — about 250 ml (1 cup) per bowl. The broth should be piping hot when it hits the noodles; if it has cooled while you were cooking the noodles, bring it back to a near-simmer before serving. Do not let it come to a full boil with the soy milk — you risk curdling.
Step 3 — Add Toppings and Finishing Oils
Spoon a generous mound of zha jiang (about 3–4 tbsp) into the center of each bowl. Arrange the blanched greens on one side. Scatter the sliced scallions over the top. Drizzle 1–2 tsp of la-yu chili oil over the meat miso — this creates the vivid red-orange pools of spiced oil you see in restaurant presentations. Finish with a pinch of sansho or Sichuan peppercorn powder and, if using, a sprinkle of ground toasted sesame seeds. Serve at once.
Variations
Brothless Tantanmen (Shirunashi Tantanmen, 汁なし担々麺)
The brothless version is actually closer to the original Sichuan dandan noodles. Instead of a large bowl of creamy soup, the cooked noodles are dressed with a concentrated sesame-chili sauce and topped with zha jiang. To make it: whisk together 2 tbsp tahini, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1 tsp la-yu, ½ tsp sugar, and 2 tbsp of the hot noodle cooking water (the starch helps emulsify the sauce). Drain the cooked noodles thoroughly and transfer to a bowl. Pour the sauce over the noodles and toss to coat evenly. Top with zha jiang, scallions, and a generous pinch of Sichuan peppercorn powder. The flavors are more concentrated and the mala numbing sensation is more pronounced without the broth diluting the spices.
Cold Tantanmen (Hiyashi Tantanmen, 冷やし担々麺)
A popular summer variation served throughout Japan from July to September. The method is the same as the standard recipe, but the assembled bowl is served chilled. After cooking, rinse the noodles under cold running water until fully chilled, then drain very well. Use the sesame broth at room temperature — do not heat it. In hot weather, serve the bowl over a small amount of crushed ice in a larger outer bowl to keep it cold during eating. Top with zha jiang (at room temperature is fine), cucumber julienne, shredded chicken or chashu, and a drizzle of chili oil. This version is especially refreshing as a summer ramen option.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I make tantanmen without soy milk?
A: Yes. Oat milk is the most popular substitute and produces a very similar creaminess. Full-fat canned coconut milk (mixed 50/50 with extra chicken stock) works too, though it adds a subtle coconut undertone. Plain dairy milk (whole milk) is also used in some Japanese restaurant versions — it produces a slightly richer, less bean-forward flavor. Avoid sweetened milks of any kind, as the sugar will throw off the salt-sweet balance of the broth significantly.
Q: My broth turned out grainy and separated. What went wrong?
A: Grainy or broken broth is almost always caused by one of two issues. First, the sesame paste was not fully whisked smooth with the soy sauce before the liquids were added — always dissolve the paste in a small amount of soy sauce first, then gradually stream in the stock while whisking. Second, the heat was too high and the soy milk curdled. Heat the assembled broth over medium heat only, and remove it from the burner as soon as it reaches a near-simmer (steam but no bubbles). If it does curdle, blending it quickly with an immersion blender can partially recover the texture.
Q: What ramen noodles work best for tantanmen?
A: Medium-thin straight noodles (around 1.5–1.8 mm diameter) are traditional for tantanmen. The thin noodle surface absorbs the creamy broth efficiently. Wavy noodles, while good for miso ramen, tend to bunch and trap too much broth in the curls. If you can find Sun Noodle brand fresh ramen at an Asian market, their “Tokyo style” straight noodles are ideal. Dried ramen noodles (wheat-based, not egg noodles) are a perfectly acceptable everyday substitute.
Q: Can I make tantanmen vegetarian or vegan?
A: Easily. Replace ground pork with finely crumbled firm tofu or a mix of minced shiitake mushrooms and walnuts — the texture is surprisingly close. Use kombu-and-shiitake dashi in place of chicken stock, and ensure your doubanjiang is vegan (most are, but some contain oyster sauce — check the label). The sesame broth is naturally plant-based as long as you use soy or oat milk. The resulting bowl is deeply satisfying and the sesame-chili flavor profile is fully intact.
Recommended Items
These three products cover the key specialty ingredients and tools that make a noticeable difference in homemade tantanmen. All are available internationally through Amazon.
Soeos Sichuan Peppercorns (Whole, 4 oz)
Authentic Szechuan red peppercorns with the intense numbing (mala) effect that defines both tantanmen and the original Sichuan dandan noodles. The whole pods keep their citrusy fragrance far longer than pre-ground. Toast briefly in a dry pan, then crush or grind just before use for maximum impact. Also essential for mapo tofu and kung pao chicken — a genuinely useful pantry staple.
QiaoNiangFang Doubanjiang — Pixian Broad Bean Paste with Red Chili Oil (500 g)
Pixian-style doubanjiang from Sichuan is fermented longer than the generic chili bean pastes sold in most Western supermarkets, producing a deeper, more complex savory-spicy flavor. This is the ingredient that gives the zha jiang meat miso its characteristic dark color and umami depth. The 500 g jar keeps in the refrigerator for several months. A little goes a long way — 1 tbsp per batch of zha jiang is sufficient for mild heat.
S&B Taberu Ra-yu — Chili Oil with Crunchy Garlic (3.88 fl oz)
S&B’s Taberu Ra-yu is the most popular store-bought la-yu in Japan — a fragrant chili-sesame oil packed with crispy fried garlic and onion bits. It brings both the heat and the crunch that tantanmen needs as a finishing oil. Use 1–2 teaspoons per bowl at the table so each diner can dial their own spice level. The crunchy garlic bits add wonderful texture that homemade la-yu can’t always replicate.
Tantanmen is one of eleven major homemade ramen styles covered in our complete guide. From quick 15-minute abura soba to slow-cooked tonkotsu, the pillar article includes a full tools checklist and ingredient substitution chart for home cooks outside Japan.
→ The Complete Guide to Homemade Ramen — 11 Styles Compared
📝 About this recipe: This recipe was independently developed by the HowToCook.jp editorial team based on widely known cooking techniques and ingredient combinations. It is not an official recipe from any specific chef, cookbook author, or restaurant. Sources listed below were consulted for cooking technique and food safety information.
Sources & References
- Wikipedia — Dandan noodles: origin, Sichuan history, and Japanese adaptation
- Tokyo Ramen Tours — Tantanmen: The Spicy Roots of this Popular Ramen Dish (history of Chen Kenmin’s Japanese introduction)
- RecipeTin Japan — Japanese-style Dan Dan Noodles (Tantanmen): broth technique and ingredient ratios
- Just One Cookbook — Tan Tan Ramen (Tantanmen): broth with sesame paste, soy milk, and la-yu finishing
- No Recipes — Soupless Tantanmen (汁なし坦々麺): shirunashi method and sauce technique
- Sudachi Recipes — Easy Tantanmen: tahini substitution method and broth preparation steps
- Just One Cookbook — How to Make Sesame Paste (Neri Goma): comparison of neri-goma, tahini, and Chinese sesame paste
Information last verified: February 2026